Evans Wooden Screw Co

The Traditional Carpenter

Custom Ash Vise Screw

A customer contacted in late October or early  November me about his Roubo bench build that he was doing.  He was making it out of Red oak, and wanted to know if I could do an over sized leg and screw hub to match it.  I contacted the sawmill, and had them cut a few over sized  blanks for me.  However, when they came out of the kiln in the beginning of December,  there was quite a bit of checking and some felling shake, making them unusable for the leg.

Contacting the customer,  we came up with an alternative. . . Ash.  I had a bunch of thicker Ash left in stock already, and he was  happy to use the ash in stock rather than hope for the best on red oak round 2.

A week later I shipped the finished product out to him,  30#  of lumber headed from Indiana to  the west coast.

And, a week or two later, he emailed me a few pictures of his Roubo Bench.    It looks great, and I’m pretty sure he’ll get many of years hard use out of it!

Breadboard Ends, a quick walk through

I recently made a dining room table with breadboard ends.   I took some photos of the process for those of you interested in how it is done.  You can do these with power tools, but it is a simple thing to do with had tools as well.


I start by cutting the table ends to shape, then defining the tenons.  I use a rebate plane and a router plane to get the tenon thickness dialed in.   I left a 3/4″ long tenon nearly the entire length of the table, stopping approximately 1″ from each end, then formed  3 longer tenons to support the breadboard ends.   Mark the  end board from the tenons, leaving enough play to account for wood movement ( 1/4″ on each side in this case), then move on to chopping the mortises.

Laying out and chopping the mortises.    Layout with a square and a mortise or marking gauge, then start in the middle of the deeper mortises.  Cut a v shape to start, then define the mortises  edges after full depth has been achieved.


Once you have the deeper mortises done, you then cut the long  mortise .   I did this one with a mortise chisel,  then cleaned up with a router plane.

I like to use a drawbore approach to keep the end board tight to the table.  Drill holes in the bread board end.  These are 5/16″ holes.  Then slide the breadboard end over the tenons.  Use a transfer punch to mark the hole locations.  Remark the holes about 1/16th of an inch closer to the table center than the transfer punch marks.  Drill the holes, then elongate them with a rasp.

Make yourself some dowel pins if you don’t have an appropriate sized dowel.  Simply cut a slightly oversize square, then pare down until its mostly rounded.     Dome or point the ends of the dowels. Make sure to test them in a scrap piece with the same sized hole drilled in it.  This helps guide the pins through the holes, since they are offset.

This shows the offset though the holes.  It is a little much for this 1 1/8″ top, so use the rasp to get the offset close if you somehow got the offset a little off.

I neglected to get pictures of the assembly phase, but it is pretty simple.   Glue only the center tenon, tap the breadboard end in,  apply a small amount of glue to the pegs, then lightly drive in the pegs.


Wait until the glue sets, then trim the pegs flush, sand, finish and you’re done!

Trestle table

Just a simple trestle table.

Ash base, Walnut and Ash top.

Live edge.

8′ x 40″ wide

Lumber Delivery

I’ve got an order for a few dining room tables.  The lumber arrived the other day, and is being processed.

Some really nice Ash from a local mill.  I’m waiting on a few slabs for a few of the tops, but am at the point where I can get started on the milling and rough cutting parts.

Lumber is in four sizes, 6/4, 8/4, 12/4, 16/4

There are several different designs for the tables, so each one will need slightly different components and joinery.


I got a bit tired of using 5 gallon buckets as sawbenches in the shop, so I thought I’d go ahead and build a set for myself.

These make sawing to a line nearly effortless!  I can saw pretty well, but the improvement in the ease of sawing is really something.  Using that center slot everything lines up perfectly, and your hand and eye coordinate without your conscious brain getting involved.

These are white oak. This particular Oak is hard.  Much harder than the stuff I usually get.  Chopping those 1 3/4″ deep mortises was not fun, and required more honings than I would have expected.

21″ tall, 32″ long, 10″ wide.

Once I used them a few times, I decided to add some leather pads to the feet.  The leather pads, (one on each corner) allow you to re-position over small debris and irregularities in your floor, and also make the benches stay put very nicely.


A set of Custom Wooden Screws

A customer contacted me recently and asked if I could roughly match a Vise screw hub he had seen. The only issue was that the two screws were very different in size.

The results weren’t too bad!. One will be used in a tail vise, the larger is going in a leg vise.

The larger of the screws is a standard 18″ screw, with an internal garter slot added and the hub customized.

The second screw is 1 3/4″, with 3 tpi, at 13″ long. The garter slot will have an external garter.

Metal Working Vise mount for woodworking Bench

Everyone can use a metalworking vise, and woodworkers are no exception. The problem is often having it mounted to your woodworking bench permanently means it is in the way a lot of the time. Most people that mount the vise to their woodworking bench mount it to a back corner, where it is hard to access from both sides, so it cuts down on the vises functionality as well.

My solution, which I have seen several times over the past 20 years in several different designs, is to mount the vise to a block that can be clamped in one of your woodworking vises, then taken off the bench when not needed.

Simple, effective, and gets the job done!

Bench on Bench

A “Bench on Bench” with a twin screw vise.

These help with dovetail and joinery cutting by raising your work to a comfortable level. Not only are they a back saver, they put your eyeline in a better place to saw more accurately.

32″ wide, 14″ deep, 12″ tall, with 25″ between the screws to allow for larger panels.

Walnut and Maple, with Mahogany Handwheels.

Te design gets dressed up a little by the profiles on the feet and top support.

On top of the bench with the tools for making some dovetails.

Tucks away nicely under the bench dogs beneath the bench for storage when not needed.

Web Site is Under maintenance this week!

Over the next week the website will be undergoing a major revamp and upgrading to more reliable software. Once the website is 100% updated there will be new products in the store and new content on the blog.

Please be patient while we upgrade and give you a better resource!

As always, please feel free to contact me directly if you need to ask questions or place an order.

St Andrews Cross Leg Vise

Just a few pictures of a St Andrews Cross leg vise I am working on. The St Andrews Cross (SAC) hardware is very simple to make, and much nicer to use than a pin and guide in the bottom of the chop.

People often refer to this type of hardware as a St Peters Cross, but that is a misnomer.

I will have drawings and more detailed specs of the hardware up on the site in the coming months.

Benchcrafted makes some very nice hardware for a very reasonable price if making your own hardware is out of the question.



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